Universal Lower Link Mount 3/4" bolt on 3"-3 1/16" spread from Tekk

$16.00
In stock
SKU
605-JEH-103
This link mount is designed for standard link arms that utilize either bushing assemblies or uni-ball bearing chassis pivots. Any link pivot using a 3/4" bolt and 3"-3 1/16" spread will work with this mount. Designed to be MIG welded and cut from mild steel these mounts can also be TIG welded and cut from Chromoly 4130 for Race Applications.
Downloadable

More Information

More Information
Seller JEH Consulting INC

Specifications

Platform Universal / platform-agnostic
Part Family Triangulated / Single / Vertical Link Pivot Mounts (chassis tube weld-on)
Position Lower (lower control arm / lower link mount)
Build System Link suspension (general rod-end / uniball link)

Frequently Asked Questions

What thickness and material should I cut these link mounts from?

These are designed to be cut from mild steel and MIG welded for most builds. If you're doing a race application you can run them out of 4130 chromoly and TIG weld them instead.

Will these work with my uni-ball link arms or just bushings?

Both — they're designed for standard link arms running either bushing assemblies or uni-ball bearing chassis pivots. As long as your link pivot uses a 3/4" bolt and falls in the 3"-3 1/16" spread, you're good.

Do these weld into my chassis or bolt on?

The mount welds into your chassis (MIG for mild steel, TIG for chromoly) and the link arm itself bolts on with a 3/4" bolt. After you buy you get the DXF cut files to run on your plasma, laser, or waterjet.

How do I get the Universal Lower Link Mount 3/4" bolt on 3"-3 1/16" spread from Tekk after I buy it?

These are digital — soon as your payment goes through you get a download link for the DXF cut files. Nothing physical ships.

How much does the Universal Lower Link Mount 3/4" bolt on 3"-3 1/16" spread from Tekk cost?

The Universal Lower Link Mount 3/4" bolt on 3"-3 1/16" spread from Tekk is $16.00.

Who designs the Universal Lower Link Mount 3/4" bolt on 3"-3 1/16" spread from Tekk?

This Universal Lower Link Mount 3/4" bolt on 3"-3 1/16" spread from Tekk is brought to you by Tekk Consulting Inc. Other off-road and race fabrication designers in the DIY Off Road marketplace include All Co Metal Fab, Armada Engineering, Baja Customs, Baker Motorsports, BPforged, Brad Howard Welding and Fabrication, Christopher Reader, CRD, Deuling Design, Dirty BFabwerx, FDFabrication, Izzy Fab, JEH Consulting INC, JRTfab, Master Fab, Mc Will Manufacturing, OffroadCAD-Models and Superioroffroaddesigns. Need a custom part designed? Email us and we will connect you with the right designer.

Where can I get cut files for Lower Link Arm Mounts?

DIY Off Road has downloadable DXF cut files for Lower Link Arm Mounts plus a ton of other off-road and race fabrication parts, all drawn up by real fab shops. Browse the Lower Link Arm Mounts category, or shoot us an email and we will point you to the right files for your build.

Do you have Mounts and Accessories cut files for an off-road or race build?

Yeah — DIY Off Road carries downloadable DXF cut files across Mounts and Accessories, including Lower Link Arm Mounts, all designed by working fab shops. Browse the Mounts and Accessories section or email us and we will help you track down the right files.

Can you point me to a shop to get these cut and bent?

Yeah — if you don't have your own CNC plasma, laser, or waterjet, shoot us an email and we'll send over a few shops that can cut (and press/bend) the parts so you can weld them up.

How do I get the files, and what do I do with them?

Soon as your payment goes through you get a download link for the DXF cut files. You (or a shop) cut them from steel on a plasma, laser, or waterjet, bend whatever needs it, then weld them into your build. Nothing physical ships.

Do I need to know how to weld and fab to use these?

Yep — these are cut files for DIY and pro fabrication. A lot of the parts are "plasma table friendly" (flat plate, no bends) to make cutting and assembly easier, but you'll need to cut and weld them in yourself, or have a shop handle it.

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